A wardrobe is usually the largest single piece of furniture in a bedroom, and once it is built it rarely moves. Getting it right means a tidy room for years. Getting it wrong means doors that hit the bed and a pile of jumpers on the chair. This guide covers measuring, door styles, sizes and the inside layout.

Measure the room before you shop

Take four measurements before you look at a single wardrobe:

  • Wall width. Measure the full width of the wall you plan to use, and note any sockets, light switches or radiators.
  • Ceiling height. Check at the exact spot the wardrobe will stand. Older houses often have ceilings that dip, and you need a little extra height to tilt a tall wardrobe upright when you build it.
  • Depth available. Measure from the wall to the nearest obstacle, usually the bed. Then add the space needed for the doors to swing open and for you to stand in front of them.
  • The route in. Most wardrobes arrive flat-packed, but it is still worth checking stairs and tight landings for the longest boxes.

Compare your numbers with the dimensions on each product page. A strip of masking tape on the floor showing the wardrobe's footprint and door swing is the quickest way to see whether it will work.

Choosing a door style and size

Hinged doors give you full access to the inside and are the most common option. Sliding doors need no swing space, which makes them a good choice where a bed or chest of drawers sits close in front. The trade-off is that you can only open one side at a time. Mirrored doors save you buying a separate mirror and make a small room feel lighter.

In our wardrobes collection you will find these main types:

Type Best for
2 door wardrobe Single rooms, children's rooms, guest rooms, or one person's clothes
3 door wardrobe Main bedrooms; often split into hanging space and shelves
4 and 5 door wardrobe Couples sharing a wardrobe, or anyone with a lot of clothes
Combination wardrobe Hanging space and drawers in one unit, so you may not need a separate chest
Sliding door wardrobe Rooms where there is no space for doors to swing open
Corner wardrobe Making use of an awkward corner that would otherwise be wasted
Low wardrobe or open hanging unit Under a sloping ceiling, or a lighter, more open look

Plan the inside around how you dress

The outside decides whether the wardrobe fits the room. The inside decides whether it fits your life. Before you buy, have a rough look at what you own:

  • Long hanging. Coats, dresses and long trousers need a full-height rail. Check the rail height on wardrobes with a drawer underneath.
  • Short hanging. Shirts and jackets take up less height, so a shelf above the rail is useful for bags and boxes.
  • Folded clothes. Jumpers, T-shirts and jeans are happier on shelves or in drawers than on hangers. If you fold a lot, a combination wardrobe or a separate chest is worth it.
  • Shoes and accessories. A wardrobe with a drawer at the base keeps shoes off the floor and out of sight.

A single huge hanging space looks generous but is often the least practical layout day to day. A mix of rail, shelf and drawer usually works better. If your wardrobe is short on folded storage, pair it with one of our chests of drawers, and read our chest of drawers buying guide for help with sizing.

Matching the rest of the room

Many of our wardrobes belong to a range, which means you can buy matching bedside cabinets, chests and dressing tables in the same finish. If you would rather buy the whole room at once, our bedroom sets group the pieces together. A mirrored door wardrobe can also save you buying a separate piece from our mirrors collection.

A final practical point: tall wardrobes should be fixed to the wall using the anti-tip fitting where one is supplied. It takes ten minutes and matters most in children's rooms. Delivery is free to England, Wales and most of Scotland, usually within 1 to 2 weeks, and you have 14 days to return an item if it is not right.

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